Nepal has always been on my travel list and finally it became a reality in 2019. Looking back, it has to be up there with one of my most adventurous and meaningful trips. I was left wanting more if I am honest. The adrenaline from pushing my body on the trek to Poon Hill left me desperate to do a longer and even more challenging route. I have been dreaming ever since about my return to the mountains. I feel like I have only brushed the surface of an incredible country.
There are so many highlights from this trip but one that sticks out is the pure feeling of being in the middle of nowhere in the mountains. Away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The mountains truly felt alive. I remember walking for hours without seeing anyone and just being surrounded by the snow capped mountains, this was pretty special.
I was very unprepared for this trip. My style in life generally, I like to be underprepared and then be pleasantly surprised rather than planning for a long time and being disappointed. No disappointment here! I arrived lacking the correct equipment and the right clothing but luckily I was staying with Kate & Amrit from Himalyan Quests who helped get me ready and provided me extra layers and boots for the trek. Before the trek, I was lucky enough to visit Amrit’s family who were located in a small village on the side of a hill which provided beautiful sunrises and sunsets over the valley. I am so grateful that I was able to experience the culture and daily life in the village. We flew first to Pokhara on the smallest plane I have ever been on. A great experience but I would be lying if I didn’t say I was a little scared the whole 30 minutes of the short flight however the snow capped mountains in the distance were a helpful distraction.
Before visiting Amrit’s village, we took a car to the village where Bamboo volunteers stay on their tours. It was the first time I was able to clearly see the beautiful Himalayas and it took my breath away. I tried to hold in my giddiness but inside I was feeling like a little kid as I knew I would be up there in a few days completing my trek. We went on a walk to meet the villagers and we walked past two friendly ladies cutting the grass, this has become one of my favourite photos from the trip.
I was then lucky enough to travel with Kate and Amrit to their family village , I am truly grateful to both Kate and Amrit as this was a very special experience. On the second day , they took me on a sunrise walk that I will never forget. Hiking from their home , we climbed high until we were above the clouds , a truly magical and peaceful experience. I remember Kate mentioning that I couldn’t stop grinning. I would say when I am happy , my face shows it first , you’ll know! Also as a passionate photographer , this was heaven for me. The other days in the village were spent with Amrits family, I remember very fondly his wonderful Mother who I sat with cutting turmeric for 2 hours. My hands were stained orange for the rest of the day. I loved my experience in the village!
Poon Hill Trek time:
Even though Poon Hill is known as one of the easiest treks for beginners who want a taste of the mountains. I was still very nervous. Overweight and asthmatic at the time , I remember the first hour of the trip thinking what have I signed up to…little did I know it would turn out to be the best thing I have ever signed up for, except for the coldness. I remember being cold. Very cold.
Steps. I remember there being hundreds, thousands of steps. No one told me this part I thought as I just tried to keep lifting one foot at a time. It felt like they were never ending as we slowly ascended further and further up. I decided not to take a porter and I carried my own bag, this was fine until I saw people racing up past me bagless! However , a big part of the challenge for me was being able to carry my own belongings and I am happy I did.
My guide Saroj, also Amrit’s brother, was friendly and knowledgeable, he made me feel like family straight away. Some hours during the trek, we spoke a lot about world wide issues and other times we didn’t speak for 6 hours. I knew this was a good thing. Normally, I talk and talk if I am feeling awkward. If I feel comfortable with someone, I am happy to sit in silence but still feel content. This was like that. I thoroughly enjoyed the peace and quiet of the trek. I had been going through some times of uncertainty ahead and this trek gave me time to think about it all and it brought a lot of clarity and perspective.
On day 3 of the trek, the snow came. Deep snow. I had read that February was a good time to visit but also sometimes that the snowfall could cancel treks. In our case we had just the right amount of snow! The snow brought with it some of the toughest trekking but also the most adventurous and fun experiences. We were very careful on the icy steps, see below. We reached the top of Poon Hill and after days of not seeing many people , the sunrise at Poon Hill was rather full of fellow trekkers but it didn’t take away from the beauty surrounding us all. We left at 3am to reach the top, it was fun using head torches to make our way up.
The descent back down was tough. I was slipping continuously. I laughed it off as I fell on my bum many times. One downhill section, Saroj just told me to throw the backpack down the hill and slide on bum down. This was extremely fun!
On our last night of the trek, the rain started and it was bone chillingly cold. I remember being wet and freezing, I changed clothes and I huddled into the ‘restaurant’ of this very sweet homestay. One heater between us, we had hot Chai and Dhal Bhat. Dhal Bhat, my everyday dinner, I started to love it. Eating with hands is a unique experience! Then the homestay owner came enthusiastically through the door holding a Scrabble box in his hands! He was so excited and stated that we were to play Scrabble with him. Now I wish I took a photo of the words that were made. We played in English and it was so sweet that both men tried their best, they were so happy when they made a word, however every time it was spelt completely wrong ha! ha! I kept my competitive nature aside and ignored the spelling mistakes and praised their words! We had some strong Nepalase alcohol before heading to sleep for the evening. Ready for the last descent back to civilisation!
Kathmandu:
I returned back to Kathmandu for 4 days. A hot shower was very welcome, apologies to Kate for stealing all the hot water. Kate and Amrit were so welcoming and let me stay at their beautiful home. Kate helped point me in the right direction of places to go and visit and which bus to take. I highly recommend two things to do in Kathmandu.
First of all, I found a wonderful Free Walking Tour on Facebook run by a gentleman called Shiva. I was a little nervous as the start location was very random and I wasn’t sure if anyone would turn up. I turned up and I was the only customer for the walking tour which made it even more special. We weaved through the crazy streets of Kathmandu. Shiva asked me if I wanted to see the real side of Kathmandu…. Hesitantly I said yes, so we ended up going through religious buildings where they were slaughtering goats at the time for some sort of ceremony. I guess , I did say yes!! I love the smells, business and architecture of Kathmandu. My senses were heightened profusely but I still to this day remember this tour very fondly and vividly. I also remember the crazy electricity wires to this day , never seen anything like it. We finished the tour at the popular Monkey Temple – Swayambhunath Stupa. 365 steps. More stairs I thought to myself. Waiting for you at the top of the stairs is a huge stupa with colorful prayer flags. Also a great view over the bustling city. Swayambhunath is one of the most sacred religious sites in Kathmandu. This was a great tour and I highly recommend it, you can find more info here: https://www.facebook.com/FreeWalkingTourKathmandu/
My second recommendation is to visit Patan , also known as the “ City of Beauty” a short drive from the main city. Another busy market town but also home to the famous Durbar Square which is also a UNESCO heritage site. I found this town so interesting. I could have spent 10 hours wandering around and getting lost in the many alleyways. I took many alleyways that brought me into beautiful squares where restaurants were. Since returning, I have read that there are over 130 courtyards in Patan. These hidden bars and restaurants were extremely vibrant and I enjoyed a cold beer at one of them and watched the world go by! It almost felt like I was in Europe!! Again, if you are into photography , Patan will blow your mind! The colors, carvings , temples and monuments are stunning.
Overall , if you are into any of the following: art, culture, adrenaline , sports , photography or anything rather adventurous, Nepal is for you. There are so many different elements of Nepal, whether it is the busy cities or the peaceful mountains, there is something for everyone. The scenery is matched by the kindness of its people. It is one of my favorite countries I have visited and I can’t wait to return! Thank you Kate, Amrit and the HQ team for making it so awesomely memorable.
Claire Wyatt, UK
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